Full TMB budget: self-guided
| Category | Budget tier | Comfort tier |
|---|---|---|
| Accommodation (9-10 nights) | EUR 1,600-1,750 | EUR 1,900-2,250 |
| Daily average | EUR 170-190 | EUR 200-250 |
| Accommodation includes | Dorm half-board at refuges | Mix of hotels + refuges, private rooms |
| Additional costs | Lifts, beer, snacks | Luggage transfer, demi-pension upgrades |
Source: recency.md; Bookatrekking — TMB Cost 2025/2026.
These numbers assume self-guided trekking with refuge half-board as the primary accommodation. The budget tier uses dorm beds throughout. The comfort tier mixes hotel nights in Courmayeur and Champex-Lac with refuge dormitories on trail stages.
Half-board pricing by country
Half-board (dinner + breakfast + dormitory bed) is the standard unit at mountain refuges. The price varies substantially depending on which side of the border you sleep.
| Country | Half-board range (2026) | Dorm-only range | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| France | EUR 75-100 | EUR 30-45 | Paid showers common (EUR 2-4). Wine with dinner extra. |
| Italy | EUR 60-85 | EUR 25-40 | Best food of the three countries. Showers usually included. |
| Switzerland | CHF 100-130 (~EUR 100-130) | CHF 50-70 | Everything costs more. See below. |
Source: recency.md; 2025/2026 published refuge pricing. Prices rising 5-10% per year due to energy and staffing costs.
The CHF shock: stages 6-8
The TMB enters Switzerland at Grand Col Ferret (Stage 6) and exits at Col de Balme (Stage 9). The Swiss section covers roughly three days. Here is what changes:
| Item | France/Italy | Switzerland | Multiplier |
|---|---|---|---|
| Dorm bed + half-board | EUR 60-100 | CHF 100-130 | 1.3-2.0x |
| Beer (50cl draft) | EUR 5-7 | CHF 8-12 | ~1.7x |
| Simple lunch | EUR 12-18 | CHF 20-30 | ~1.7x |
| Shower | EUR 2-4 (if charged) | Often included | -- |
| Currency | EUR | CHF (1 CHF ~ 1.00 EUR as of 2026) | Card accepted at most huts |
Practical advice:
- Swiss huts increasingly accept cards, but carry CHF cash as backup.
- Champex-Lac has an ATM. La Fouly does not (confirm locally).
- Budget an extra EUR 50-80 total for the Swiss stages compared to equivalent French stages.
CAF/FFCAM membership
The Club Alpin Francais (now FFCAM — Federation Francaise des Clubs Alpins et de Montagne) offers membership that functions as both a discount card and insurance policy for the French Alps.
Costs: EUR 80-100/year depending on the section (local club) you join. Some sections charge more for insurance tiers.
Benefits on the TMB:
- Refuge discounts: EUR 5-15 per night at FFCAM-affiliated French refuges. Over 5-6 nights in France, this recovers a significant portion of the membership cost.
- Rescue insurance in France: FFCAM membership includes accident and rescue coverage via the Cartes Neige system. This covers PGHM mountain rescue costs that might otherwise be billed for medical transport (helicopter ambulance/SAMU).
- UIAA reciprocity: FFCAM membership provides discounts at alpine club huts across Europe (SAC, CAI, DAV, OeAV), though the discount is smaller abroad.
Source: FFCAM; general FFCAM membership documentation.
Is it worth it? For trekkers spending 5+ nights in French refuges: yes. The refuge discounts alone recover EUR 25-75 of the membership cost. The rescue insurance adds significant value. For trekkers doing only the TMB and not returning to the French Alps: marginal. Evaluate against your travel insurance.
Rescue costs: the three-country asymmetry
Mountain rescue in the Mont Blanc region involves three national systems. Who responds depends on which side of the border you are on, and the cost structures are radically different.
France — PGHM
| Detail | Value |
|---|---|
| Organization | PGHM (military gendarmerie, specialized mountain unit) |
| Availability | 24/7, 365 days |
| Annual operations | 1,300+ in the Mont Blanc massif |
| Helicopter use | 97% of rescues are helicopter-assisted |
| Emergency number | +33 (0)4 50 53 16 89 (direct); 112 (EU emergency) |
| Cost | Rescue itself is free (state-funded). Helicopter medical transport (SAMU) may be billed. EU citizens with EHIC partially covered. Non-EU visitors should carry insurance. |
Source: PGHM Chamonix.
Italy — CNSAS
| Detail | Value |
|---|---|
| Organization | Corpo Nazionale Soccorso Alpino e Speleologico (volunteer-based) |
| Emergency number | 118 (medical); 112 (general) |
| Cost | Regional rules apply. Valle d'Aosta can bill for helicopter rescue. Expect EUR 2,000-5,000+ for non-residents. |
Switzerland — Rega
| Detail | Value |
|---|---|
| Organization | Rega (Swiss Air-Rescue), non-profit foundation |
| Helicopter bases | 14 across Switzerland; any location reachable within 15 minutes |
| Patron membership | CHF 30/year |
| Cost for non-patrons | CHF 3,500-15,000+ for helicopter rescue. Rega patrons: Rega waives costs not covered by insurance. |
Source: Rega.
The critical asymmetry: French rescue is free at point of delivery. Italian rescue may bill. Swiss rescue will bill non-patrons/non-insured — a 15-minute helicopter flight can cost CHF 3,500+. Rega patron membership (CHF 30/year) is the cheapest rescue insurance in the Alps: it ensures Rega waives any costs not covered by your existing health/travel insurance. Buy it before crossing into Switzerland.
Minimum insurance recommendation
| Coverage | Minimum |
|---|---|
| Helicopter evacuation | EUR 25,000 / CHF 25,000 |
| Medical repatriation | EUR 100,000+ |
| Trip cancellation | To cover refuge pre-payments |
| Search and rescue | Check if separate from medical evacuation |
Guided vs. self-guided
Self-guided (the numbers above)
You book refuges yourself, carry your own pack, and navigate using trail markings, a guidebook, and/or GPS. This is the cheapest option and the one most TMB trekkers choose.
Self-guided with luggage transfer
Several operators run luggage transfer services between TMB stages. Your main bag is transported by van to the next refuge; you walk with a day pack. Cost: EUR 15-25 per bag per stage, or EUR 150-250 for the full circuit. Companies include: Les Bagages du TMB, Taxi du Mont-Blanc, and multiple Courmayeur-based operators.
This is the comfort-tier option within self-guided trekking. Total trip cost: EUR 1,900-2,250.
Guided
The Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix and numerous commercial operators run guided TMB programs. Typical pricing for a 7-11 day guided trek: EUR 2,500-4,500 per person (guide fees, accommodation, half-board, transfers). Some operators include luggage transport; some do not. Private guiding is more expensive.
The Compagnie employs approximately 220 guides and has operated since 1821. It is the oldest mountain guide company in the world. (Compagnie des Guides)
What budget guides get wrong about extras
Most TMB budget calculators stop at half-board. In practice, trekkers spend EUR 15-25 per day beyond the demi-pension price on items that add up quickly:
| Extra | Typical cost | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Beer at the refuge (50cl) | EUR 5-7 (France/Italy); CHF 8-12 (Switzerland) | One beer per evening is near-universal |
| Coffee | EUR 2-3; CHF 4-5 | Morning and afternoon |
| Packed lunch from refuge | EUR 8-12; CHF 15-20 | Or carry your own from valley shops |
| Paid shower | EUR 2-4 | French refuges mostly; Italy usually included |
| Wine at dinner | EUR 4-8 per glass | Not included in half-board |
| Snacks/chocolate | EUR 3-5 | Trail snacks from refuge shop or carried |
| Phone charging | EUR 2-3 | Some refuges charge for outlet access |
Over a 10-day TMB, these extras total EUR 150-250. Over a 14-day Haute Route (all Switzerland): CHF 280-400. This is the gap between the "EUR 1,600 TMB" advertised by agencies and the actual spend.
Luggage transfer: the comfort option
Several operators run bag transfer services between TMB stages. Your main bag is transported by van; you walk with a day pack.
| Service | Coverage | Cost per bag per stage | Full circuit |
|---|---|---|---|
| Les Bagages du TMB | Most TMB stages | EUR 15-20 | EUR 150-200 |
| Taxi du Mont-Blanc | Chamonix valley + Italian stages | EUR 20-25 | EUR 200-250 |
| Local operators (Courmayeur) | Italian stages only | EUR 15 | Varies |
The luggage transfer market exists because it addresses a real problem: the TMB involves 10,000 m of cumulative ascent. Carrying 10-12 kg over 170 km is manageable for experienced hikers. For first-time multi-day trekkers, the difference between a 5 kg day pack and a 12 kg full pack can be the difference between enjoying the trek and enduring it.
Currency strategy
The TMB uses two currencies: EUR (France, Italy) and CHF (Switzerland). The Swiss stages cover approximately 3 days (stages 6-8).
Practical approach:
1. Carry EUR for the majority of the trek. Most refuges in all three countries accept EUR cash.
2. Carry CHF 100-200 in cash for Swiss stages. ATM available in Champex-Lac; none in La Fouly (confirm locally).
3. Cards (Visa/Mastercard) are accepted at most huts, but not all. Some French refuges are cash-only for extras (beer, showers).
4. Notify your bank of international travel. Card blocks on "suspicious" Swiss transactions happen.
The CHF/EUR exchange rate has been near parity (1:1) since 2023. For budget planning, treat them as equivalent.
Budget summary table
| Expense | Budget (EUR) | Comfort (EUR) | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Refuge half-board (9-10 nights) | 675-950 | 900-1,200 | France cheapest, Switzerland most expensive |
| Hotel nights (Courmayeur + Champex-Lac) | 0 | 250-400 | 2-3 nights at EUR 80-150/night |
| Luggage transfer (full circuit) | 0 | 150-250 | EUR 15-25/bag/stage |
| Extras (beer, coffee, snacks, showers) | 150-250 | 200-350 | EUR 15-25/day beyond half-board |
| Lifts / shortcuts | 0-50 | 50-100 | Flegere, Brevent, Balme if weather forces shortcuts |
| FFCAM membership | 0-100 | 0-100 | Saves EUR 5-15/night in France |
| Rega patron membership | 30 (CHF) | 30 (CHF) | Non-negotiable for Swiss stages |
| Travel insurance | 50-150 | 50-150 | Helicopter evacuation coverage |
| In-country subtotal | EUR 900-1,500 | EUR 1,600-2,550 | |
| Geneva-Chamonix shuttle (return) | 30-60 | 30-60 | EUR 15-30 each way |
| International flight | Varies | Varies | Geneva (GVA) is the standard gateway |
| Total (excluding flights) | EUR 930-1,560 | EUR 1,630-2,610 |
Source: all pricing from recency.md, montourdumontblanc.com, and cross-referenced refuge rate sheets.
For the interactive version: budget calculator.
The membership math
Alpine club memberships are the single most underused cost lever on the TMB and Haute Route. The decision tree:
FFCAM/CAF (EUR 80-100/year):
- Saves EUR 5-15/night at French refuges
- Over 5 French refuge nights on the TMB: EUR 25-75 savings
- Includes rescue insurance in France
- UIAA reciprocity gives smaller discounts elsewhere
- Break-even: 5-6 French refuge nights (achieved on a standard TMB)
SAC (CHF 150/year):
- ~30% discount at SAC huts
- Over 12 Swiss nights on the Haute Route: CHF 360-420 savings
- Swiss rescue support
- Break-even: 5 SAC hut nights (easily achieved on Haute Route; marginal on TMB's 3 Swiss nights)
AAC / DAV / OeAV (USD 80-100 / EUR 80):
- UIAA reciprocal discounts at affiliated huts across Europe
- Smaller savings than the national club of the country you are trekking in
- Best for: trekkers who do multiple European treks per year
The bottom line: if your trek has 5+ nights in one country's alpine club huts, join that country's club. The membership pays for itself and adds rescue coverage.
Sources
- montourdumontblanc.com — Official refuge booking, 2026 pricing
- Bookatrekking — TMB Cost 2025/2026 — Budget cross-reference
- tourdumontblanchike.com — Refuge pricing
- The Hiking Club — 2026 TMB Accommodation — 2026 booking
- PGHM Chamonix — Rescue operations, costs
- Rega Swiss Air-Rescue — Patron model, rescue billing
- FFCAM / Mont Blanc reservation — Membership, Gouter booking
- Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix — Guided programs
- recency.md — 2026 pricing, closures
- SAC Swiss Alpine Club — SAC hut pricing
- Alps2Alps — Transfer pricing
- Responsible Vacation — Luggage transfer market